ARGENTI, Philip
Philip Argenti (1891-1974) was born in Marseilles, into an old Chiot family of Genoese descent. Son of benefactor Pantelis Argenti, who founded the Hospital and the School name after him, he studied Classics at Oxford and Law in Athens. Multilingual and energetic, he conducted research in various archives in Europe and wrote numerous important studies (mostly in English) on matters of folklore, history and bibliography of his home island Chios. In his investigation he drew also on travel accounts and acquired a large collection of engravings and images of Chios. Argenti served in various Greek embassies, was attaché to the Greek Embassy in London and was elected a Corresponding Member of the Academy of Athens. The Argenti Estate in Kampos, Chios, a now scheduled mansion with a large garden and orchard, is to this day one of the most impressive manors and a living monument of Chiot culture. In 1962 Philip Argenti donated to the Library of Chios over 10,000 volumes, including rare editions, scientific periodicals, maps and albums, as well as manuscripts and collections of photographs and paintings, relating to each and every aspect of Chiot culture from the fourteenth to the twentieth century. At the same time, he funded the renovation of the building and also founded both the Argenti Museum, with paintings belonging to his family, and the Folklore Museum of Chios.
This important and rare edition circulated in five hundred copies. It includes a well-documented and detailed study of male and female costumes, with drawings by Argenti and one hundred and eleven colour plates with engravings and drawings from travel chronicles. The initial general remarks on the textiles of the garments (linen, wool, cotton and silk) are followed by a description of jewellery, embroidery and male costumes. The section on female costumes elaborates on the variations of various garments as they appear in each of the island’s twenty villages. The Appendix to the edition provides statistical data as well as the synonyms for each item of the Chiot costumes. In addition, the extracts from travel works cited in the text are given in their original language of publication. Nearly all the paintings, engravings, watercolours and drawings come from the author’s personal collection. Argenti’s study demonstrates and highlights the importance of travel accounts as repositories of irreplaceable testimonies on the Greek world.
Written by Ioli Vingopoulou
ARGENTI, Philip - Chios
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Women's costume from Chios, 1753. Engraving by Richard Dalton, 1753.
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Women's costumes from Olympoi, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Women's costume from Chios, 1815-1821. Original water-colour in author's collection.
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Costumes from Viki, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Costumes from Vessa, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Costumes from Pyrgi, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Women and men's working costumes from Kalamoti, Chios, 1929. Pen drawing by F. Perilla.
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Women's costume from Kalamoti, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Costumes from Patrika, Chios. Original gouache in author's Collection.
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Costumes from Nenita, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Women's costume from Chios, c.1820. Original water-colour in author's collection.
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Women's costume from Chios, 1815. From: W. Turner, “Journey of a Tour in the Levant”, London, 1820.
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Women's costume from Chios, c. 1670. Original water-colour in author's collection.
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Women's costume from Chios, 1768. Engraving by Francis Smith from Lord Baltimore collection, 1768.
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Women's costume from Chios, 1738. Drawing by Jean Liotard, Louvre museum, R.F. 1376.
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Women's costume from Chios, 1738. Drawing by Jean Liotard, Louvre museum, R.F. 1376.
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Women's costume from Chios, 1819. From original water-colour in author's collection.
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Parts of men's costume from Chios: Seimeniko (short jacket), Fez, Cap, Tsardhínia (gaiters).
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Sélla (breast kerchief), Volissos, early 19th century. Original in author's collection.
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Woven cotton bag from Kallimasia, Chios. Original in author's collection.
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Man's pounghi (pouch) from Chios, early 19th century. Original in author's collection.
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Infant's shirt from Chios (early 18th century). Original in author's collection.
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Details from Pefki, Byzantine textile belonging to Nea Moni monastery in Chios.
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ΠΕΥΚΙ (Pefki): Byzantine textile belonging to Nea Moni monastery in Chios.
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Infant's shirt from Kourounia (Chios), late 18th century . Original in author's collection.
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Men's costumes, 15th century. From Codex Berianus Chiensis, Biblioteca Civica Berio, Genoa.
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Women's costume from Chios, c.1687. From collection of the British Museum of London.
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Costumes from Kambia, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Women's costume from Chios, 1819. Original water-colour in author's collection.
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Costumes from Volissos, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Costumes from Nenitouria, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Costumes from Amades, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Costumes from Agios Georgios Sykousis, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Costumes from Mesta, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Women's working costumes from Pyrgi, Chios, 1929. Pen drawing by F. Perilla.
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Clothes from Patrika, Chios. Boustomániko(short shirt), Dress, Seiméniko jacket.
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Costumes from Kallimasia, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Women's costumes, 1727. From: Aubry de la Motraye, “ Voyages...” , The Hague, M. DCC. XXVII [1727].
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Parts of men's costume from Chios: Podia (long shirt), belt.
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Costumes from Kourounia, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Men and women's traditional costumes, Pyrgi, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Costumes from Elata, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.
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Costumes from Lithi, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.