Edward Daniel Clarke (1769-1822) was son of a writer and grandson of an archaeologist. He specialized in mineralogy and became a Doctor of the University of Cambridge. In 1799, at the age of thirty, as companion to aristocrat J.M.Cripps, he travelled throughout most of Europe. He toured Scandinavia and reached Moscow, as well as the Ottoman Empire, Constantinople, the Troad, Cyprus, the Holy Land, Egypt, the Cyclades, Central Greece and the Balkan Peninsula. He returned to London in 1804 and was later ordained as an Anglican priest. Tireless and observant, shrewd and insightful, Clarke witnessed many important events of his time, which he mentions in his chronicle. The first edition of his account was published in six volumes between 1810 and 1823, and included one hundred and eighty-five plates.

The introduction to the first volume is dedicated to the geography of the Holy Land and the value of Turkish coins. The first chapters describe Constantinople: the palace, the harem, the sultan’s triumphal processions, the bazaar and the Byzantine hippodrome. From the Hellespont, Clarke reached the Troad. He narrates his antiquarian explorations in the region in detail. He then sailed to Rhodes, describing Tenedos, Lesbos, Chios, Cos and Cnidus. He reached Macre in Lycia, and from there travelled to Egypt and Cyprus, which he also describes, followed by a thorough tour of the Holy Land. The Appendix includes, among other data, documents on the fall of Selim III in 1807, a list of about six hundred and fifty Ottoman and Arab manuscripts (on theology, metaphysics, logic, history, poetry, literature, dream interpretation, geography, astronomy, etc.), a catalogue of one hundred and seventy-two tales from the "Arabian Nights", temperature tables and Clarke’s itinerary laid out in detail, with all the distances in caravan travelling hours.

Part of the second, the third and the fourth volumes narrate Clarke’s journey into Greek territories. After leaving Alexandria, their ship sailed first to Cos and then dropped anchor at Patmos. Clarke is responsible for despoiling the library of the monastery of St John on that island. After visiting Naxos, Paros, Syros, Sounion and Vari, he “beheld, with great transports of joy” Athens and the Acropolis monuments at sunset, waxing lyrical on the whiteness of the Parthenon visible on the horizon. Especially memorable are Clarke’s pages on Lusieri’s pillaging of the Acropolis monuments on behalf of Lord Elgin. Clarke met Lusieri in the Erechtheion, while the latter was “working” there and the Italian artist pointed out that the Caryatids were in excellent condition. In his text, Clarke makes scathing comments on the “work” being carried out by Europeans on the ancient monuments, as well as their negligence which caused irrevocable damage. Subsequently Clarke toured the Peloponnese (Epidaurus, Nauplion, Argos, Mycenae, Nemea) and returned to Athens. At Eleusis, he pursued and achieved the removal of one of the two colossal Pentelic marble Caryatids, from the Lesser Propylaea of the Sanctuary of Demeter. The statue is presently in the Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge. On leaving Greece, Clarke and Cripp transported 76 and 80 cases respectively, containing their collections of marbles, manuscripts, coins and minerals. Nevertheless, Clarke’s observations on the occupations, customs, and everyday life of the Greeks remain invaluable to historical research.

The Appendix to the second volume includes, aside from temperature tables and extracts from other travellers’ handwritten notes, a table of all the locations Clarke visited himself, as well as the "Κατάλογος των βιβλίων ελληνικών τε και κοινών της τυπογραφίας του Πάνου Θεοδοσίου του εξ Ιωαννίνων" [List of books printed in classical and modern Greek from the print-shop of Panos Theodosiou from Ioannina], printed in Venice

Written by Ioli Vingopoulou

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  The sea of Marmara seen from the window of author's inn at Tekirdag (Raidestos).

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  View of the Sea of Marmara and Bosporus.

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  Arabs raising water from the Nile into their plantations.

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  Tombs of Mamluk Sultans.

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  Entrance to Khalig canal, possibly Trajan river in antiquity.

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  The catacombs of Kom el-Shokafa in the necropolis of Alexandria, as mapped by the French during the Napoleonic wars.

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  Island, bearing W. & by S. called by the Turks Hellika, by the Greeks Telo, or Delo, & laid down in the Charts under the Name of Piscopi, between Rhodes & Stanchio. Point of Rhodes & Table Mountain with the small Isle of Sicklia, lying at the S.E. of the Island of Symi. Carpathos, now Scarpanto, bearing West & by North, from Lat. 35.55. 25 miles from E. Coast of the island or Rhodes.

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  Triopian promontory and the ruins of Cnidus, as they appear at the distance of two leagues; taken from the S.W. looking towards the N.E. in sailing from Cos to Rhodes.

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  The Straits of Samos for the South East looking towards the North West.

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  Remains of the Thermae of Herodes Atticus in Alexandria Troas (today Eski Stambul).

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  Remains of an building in the ancient city Skepsis (today Kurşunlutepe) in Asia Minor.

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  Representation of Homerian chariot.

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  View of Istanbul, from the British Minister's palace.

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  Tomb of Helen, Daughter of Jason at Makri (today Fethiye).

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  Portrait of Jean-François, baron de Menou general of the French Army in Egypt under the commandment of Napoleon Bonaparte. De Menou converted into Islam.

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  Survey of the country between Aboukir & Alexandria in Egypt.

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  The order of the British corps at Abu Qir, when they took it over from the French (8 March 1801).

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  The order of the British corps under the commandment of Captain Lamour during the conquest of Abu Qir (8 March 1801).

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  Onyx which there is every reason to believe one of the Ptolemies had used as a signet. It contained a very curious monogram, expressing all the letters of the word ΠΤΟΛΕΜΑΙΟΥ.

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  Signets bearing letters of the Phoenician alphabet from Larnaca region.

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  Inscription in Phoenician on signet found at Larnaca region.

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  Silver medal found among the ruins of Citium.

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  Bay of Acre and the coast of Syria.

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  Saint John d'Acre.

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  Nazareth, in the approach from Sephoury.

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  Lake Tiberias and oyster of type Buccinum Galileum.

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  Lake of Gennesareth, or Sea of Galilee, with the town of Tiberias and the Baths of Emmaus; taken from the western side, looking towards the Country of the Gadarenes.

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  A new plan of Jerusalem in which some attempt is made to reconcile historical documents with existing phaenomena adapted by the author to his own personal observations on the spot.

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  Entrance to the supposed sepulchre of the Messiah.

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  Bethlehem to the N.E. with the monastery containing the cave of Nativity to the left.

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  Plan of the portals of the Theatre at Telmessus (today Fethiye).

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  Principal portal of the Theatre at Telmessus (today Fethiye).

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  Remains of the Theatre at Telmessus (today Fethiye) with one of the smaller portals upon the left.

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  Topographic survey of the ruins of Cnidus showing the isthmus and the two harbours.

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  Mount Thabor, as seen from the Plain of Esdraelon.

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  Grotto at Nazareth said to have been the House of Joseph and Mary.

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  Holy Sepulchre as it existed prior to its reparation A.D. 1555.

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  Rosetta branch of the Nile, from a detailed penciled sketch by an officer showing the situation of the forces previous to the capture of that town.

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  Cyprus looming to the N.E. by E. at sunset.

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  Table showing the evolution of pyramid structures: Primeval Mound, Pyramid of Saqqara and Pyramid of Giza.

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  The Olympeion or temple of Olympian Zeus in Athens.

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  The Olympeion or temple of Olympian Zeus in Athens.

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  Entrance to the Bay of Marmorice [Marmaris] bearing North, with the Coast of Caria, opposite Rhodes.

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  Pompey's Pillar, shewing the mode by which some English Sailors first gained an ascent to the capital of the Column.

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  Vaulted building at Alexandria Troas (today Eski Stambul) in Asia Minor.

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  Source of the Scamander (today Karamenderes river) in Mount Ida, in the Troad.

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  Title page.

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  Remains of Gothic church in Acre.

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  Obelisk of Heliopolis.

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  Entrance to the Pyramid of Cheops at Giza.

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  Remarkable form of one of the Pyramids of Saccara.

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  Funerary monument near Memphis.

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  Hieroglyphic tablet, as it was found at Saccara, closing the mouth of one of the Mummy Pits.

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  Lare's, beads, Amulets etc. found at Saccara.

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  One of the two obelisks of Alexandria, also known as obelisks of Cleopatra. The two granite obelisks from Aswan, dating from the time of Tuthmosis III, stood initially in Heliopolis, near Cairo. They were transported to Alexandria by the Romans. Since the late 19th century, one of the two obelisks is kept in London and the other in New York. 

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  View of Abu Qir.

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  Mountain profiles of Rhodes from the sea.

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  Amorgos, Samos, Fournoi, Icaria, and the strait between Andros and Tinos.

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  Map of Paros.

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  Portara (Gate of the temple of Apollo) in Naxos. The city and port in the background.

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  View of the coast of Attica.

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  Map of the ancient monuments of Athens.

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  The Parthenon from the southeast.

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  The Erechtheion.

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  The Odeon of Herodes Atticus in Athens.

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  Scarabean Gem, in the Author's Possession. Hermes and Charon leading a woman to Hades.

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  The monument of Philopappus.

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  View of the Saronic Gulf from the Parthenon. The Acropolis of Corinth and Salamis in the distance.

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  An Athenian lady in the dress commonly worn.

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  Remains on the site of the temple of Apollo Meleas on Mount Cynortium.

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  The captain of the boat who took Clarke to Aegina; drawing from nature by Theodoros the Kalmyk. Inaccordance with the custom of his native Kaso,s the captain is dressed in mourning because he is a widower.

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  Part of a terracotta cornice and frieze found in the Sanctuary of Asclepius in Epidaurus.

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  The Lion Gate in Mycenae.

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  Clay vases (votive offerings) from ancient tombs in the Peloponnese.

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  The temple of Zeus in Nemea.

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  The temple of Apollo in ancient Corinth.

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  Map of the Isthmus of Corinth.

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  Map of Greece and the Eastern Mediterranean, showing the itinerary of Edward Clarke.

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  Title page.

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  Portrait of Byzantine Emperor Manuel II Paleologos.

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  Janissary in full uniform.

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  Dervish.

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  The Hippodrome of Constantinople with the Obelisk of Theodosius I and Sultan Ahmed I Mosque.

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  Tumulus of Aesyetes, and Naval Station of the Greeks.

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  Map of the Troad, on which several tumuli and ancient remains are noted.

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  The putative Tomb of Aias, in the Troad.

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  Hot springs near Pınarbaşı, the site traditionally identified with Troy. Those springs are called the forty Eyes.

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  The region around the ancient city Skepsis (today Kurşunlutepe) in Asia Minor.

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  Sigeian promontory (today Kumkale).

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  Patmos at six leagues distance to the S.W. with the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian on the Heights.

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  Map of the Gulf of Makri (today Fethiye).

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  View of the medieval city of Rhodes from the sea.

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  View of the gulf of Makri (today Fethiye). In the background Mount Cragus, separating Caria and Lycia.

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  Inscription from the Lycian Tombs in Makri (today Fethiye).

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  Land on the Coast of Syria.

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  Medals of Ace and Sidon.

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  Byzantine icon found among the ruins of Sepphoris or Diocaesarea (today Tzippori).

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  Arab exhibiting the feats of a goat.

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  General outline of the author's route.

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  Map of Patmos.

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  Mnemonic sketch of the geography of Athens.

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  Ancient silver coin from Stymphalus.

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  An Albanian of Greece.

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  Eleusis and the Sacred Way from the pass of Daphni.

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  Arms of the city of Novgorod, Russia.

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  The Virgin of Iber (Bleeding Vrefokratousa). The icon was kept at the Gate of the Resurrection (today part of the Red Square) in Moscow. According to the tradition, the Virgin bleeds because she was stabbed in the cheek by an iconoclast.

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  Icon of Virgin Vrefokratousa Tricherousa (three-handed).

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  Icons seen by the author in Russia.

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  Example of rural settlement in Russia.

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  Window of typical Russian rural house. Warm stockings worn by the women of Valday province, Russia.

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  Petrovsky Palace at the entrance of Moscow. The palace was built in the era of Catherine the Great and was the penultimate stopover of Russian emperors in their journey from Saint Petersburg (then capitall of the Russian empire) to Moscow.

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  The entrance to Moscow by the route of Saint Petersburg.

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  Greek merchant from Astrakhan on a visit to Moscow.

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  Woman from Arsamas in typical costume, Moscow.

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  Carnival scene at Saint Petersburg.

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  Portrait of the Archbishop of Moscow in vestments of the Resurrection ceremony.

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  Wife of affluent Russian merchant in gala dress.

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  Romani people dancing the Barina traditional dance

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  Map of Moscow.

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  Wife of affluent merchant in official costume for the celebration of the Carnival, escorted by her nurse.

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  Arms of the city of Moscow.

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  View of Saint Basil's church, Moscow.

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  The Great Gun of Moscow or Tsar's Cannon at Kremlin gardens. Even though the cannon was never used at wartime, it served as symbol of the Russian dynasty from the 16th century onwards.

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  Ivan the Great Bell Tower, next to the Assumption cathedral at Cathedral Square in Moscow.

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  The Great Bell of Moscow or Tsar Bell at Kremlin.

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  Map of Kremlin, Moscow, with the main sights and monuments.

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  View of the first palace of the Tsars at Kremlin, Moscow. In the foreground one of the now-lost monasteries of Kremlin.

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  Carriage at the streets of Moscow.

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  Traditional pipes of Russia.

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  View of Moscow from Bersenevsk area.

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  Footwear common to several countries of the North, especially Scandinavia and Russia.

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  A carriage transported across river in Russia.

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  View of the city of Tula, south of Moscow.

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  Burial mounds in the Russian steppe.

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  Women from Penza, whom the author encountered in the city of Voronezh, Russia.

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  Woman from Voronezh, Russia.

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  Woman from Little Russia, a historical geographic region, today part of Ukraine.

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  The author's carriage crossing the stepe of Kuban, Russia.

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  Portrait of woman from Kalmykia.

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  Icons of Indian deities worshiped by the Kalmyk nomads of the Caucasus.

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  Map of the environs of Rostov-on-Don at the sea of Azov.

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  Snowflakes, which the author studied thoroughly during his journey from Saint Petersburg to Moscow.

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  Title page.

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  Portrait of Edward Daniel Clarke.

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  Double canoe widely used by the Cossacks of Don river.

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  Map of Novocherkassk, capital of the Cossacks of Don river.

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  View of Novocherkassk, capital of the Cossacks of Don river.

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  Cossacks of Novocherkassk enjoying their bath in the Don during the flood season.

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  Tatar of Astrakhan area (Nagoy tribe) travels in traditional vehicle.

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  Ancient tombs on Don river near the Black Sea, Russia.

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  Map of the Don-Volga canal. Initially envisioned by the Ottomans and later by the Russians, the canal, which connects the Sea of Azov to the Caspian Sea was only completed in 1950.

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  Post office at southern Kuban, area inhabited by Tatar tribes, Russia.

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  Circassian prince. Circassian man.

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  Castle at the Black Sea. The author states that he saw this depiction on the reverse of an ancient Greek coin, discovered in the area.

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  Observatory from which the Tatars of Kuban watched the movements of their Kirkassian neighbours. According to the author, in summer a fire was lit in these nests to keep the mosquitoes away.

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  Tomb and votive offerings from Taman, Russia.

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  Greek inscription from Crimea peninsula.

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  Incription of the Byzantine period from Crimea.

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  Sarcophagus from Asiatic Sarmatia (historical region west of the Caspian sea), used as a cistern, at the surroundings of Yeni Kale fortress in Crimea.

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  View of the Cimmerian Bosporus or Strait of Kerch (where the Black Sea joins the Sea of Azov). On the bottom right, Taman volcano, surnamed Prekla (hell) by the locals.

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  Coins of the kingdom of Cimmerian Bosporus (southern and eastern shores of the Sea of Azov), in the author's collection.

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  The putative tomb of Mithridates at Kerch, Crimea.

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  View of Cimmerian Bosporus or Strait of Kerch withn the port of Kerch (anc. Panticapaeum), Crimea. In the background, the coast of Phanagoria, today Taman peninsula, Russia.

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  View of the palace of the Khans of Crimea at Bahçesaray, Crimea.

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  Insects of the Crimea.

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  Inscription of the Byzantine period from Crimea.

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  Promontory near the monastery of Saint George at Chersonesus, Crimea.

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  View of the bay of Balaklava near Sebastopol, Crimea. In the background, the remains of the Genoese fortress.

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  Russian guard at Crimea.

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  Ruins of Greek Orthodox monastery at Chatyr-Dan mountain range near Simferopol, Crimea.

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  Map of the peninsula of Heraclea and Chersonesus, Crimea.

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  View of the interior chambers of the Genoese castle near Sebastopol, Crimea.

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  View of Cape Fiolent between Sebastopol and Balaklava, Crimea.

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  Plant of the genus Salvia, Minth family.

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  Tomb of British prison reformer John Howard at Kerch, Crimea.

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  View of Chatyr-Dan mountain range near Simferopol, Crimea.

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  Family of Tatar nomads spends the night at the steppe.

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  Coin of ancient Borysthenes or Pontic Olbia, a city in Sarmatia (historical region west of the Caspian Sea), near the mouth of Dnieper river.

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  Ancient Greek inscription from the city of Pontic Olbia or Borysthenes, seen by the author at a church in Mykolaiv, Ukraine.

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  Ancient Greek inscription from the city of Pontic Olbia or Borysthenes, seen by the author at a church in Mykolaiv, Ukraine.

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  Byzantine inscription from Pontic Olbia or Borysthenes, seen by the author at a church in Mykolaiv, Ukraine.

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  View of Snake Island at the Black Sea. According to the myth, this is were Thetis took the bodies of Achilles and Patroclus.

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  View of the port of İğneada, north of Istanbul, at the Black Sea.

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  The junction of the Bosporus and Black Sea. On the hill, Yoros castle, also known as Genoese castle, on the Asiatic shore of the Bosporus.

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  Map of Crimea.

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  Map of the port of Sebastopol, Crimea.

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  Map showing the author's route.

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  Frontispiece. Scene from ancient vase: Orestes and Electra offer a Libation at the tomb of Agamemnon.

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  Title page.

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  Figure from Athenian red-figure vase, holding trefoil shoot. According to tradition, the curling stem of a species of trefoil cpmmon in Greece gave inspiration to the volute seen in Ionic capitals.

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  Decorative features of ancient vases.

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  Figure from Athenian red-figure vase with trefoil plant. According to tradition, the curling stem of a species of trefoil cpmmon in Greece gave inspiration to the volute seen in Ionic capitals.

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  Coin of ancient Athens.

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  The Voivode (Ottoman governor) of Athens.

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  View of the village of Marathon.

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  View of the plain of Marathon with the Tumulus of the Athenians.

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  Topographic map of the plain of Marathon.

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  Ancient bulwark, possibly a tomb, near the gates of Thebes.

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  Roman sarcophagus of a man named Nedymus, Thebes.

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  Inscription from a Roman sarcophagus of Thebes. The inscription had already been published by Wheler and Spon; however, Clarke affirms that he is the first to offer a correct transcription.

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  Ancient votive offerings of terracotta and marble from Thebes.

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  Woodcut decorative feature, possibly from ancient building.

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  Delphi, the highest summit of Mount Dirfi in Euboea, as seen from Mount Helicon.

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  Interior of the Oracle of Trophonius in Livadeia.

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  Part of ancient column and column capital.

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  The “man and dog” Stele of Alxenoror, or Stele of Orchomenos, today housed in the Archaeological Museum of Athens.

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  Ancient inscription incorporated in the walls of Panagia Skripou church in Orchomenos.

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  Ancient inscription incorporated in the walls of Panagia Skripou church in Orchomenos.

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  Gorgon heads.

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  View of Mount Parnassus from the northwest.

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  The Castalian Spring in Delphi.

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  Insciption from Delphi. The author claims to have seen the inscription on the back of a seat (cathedra) behind the altar in the Sanctuary.

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  Sculpted limestone, possibly part of ancient structure, found by the author during his tour of Mount Parnassus.

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  View of Thermopylae from Mendenitsa. In the background, the Malian gulf.

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  Ancient funerary monuments at Thermopylae.

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  Silver coins of ancient Locris (today part of Phthiotis district).

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  View of Mount Olympus, Thessaly.

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  Landscape at the vale of Tempi, Thessaly.

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  Topographic map of the vale of Tempi, Thessaly.

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  Mount Athos from the east.

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  Landscape at Platamon. In the background, Mount Olympus.

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  The summits of Mount Olympus.

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  Map of Via Egnatia from Thessaloniki to ancient Epidamnus (today Dürrës, Albania).

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  Landscape at Serres.

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  Landscape at Lake Volvi.

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  Inn near Kavala.

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  Ancient oil lamp with symbols of god Hermes, from the area of Kavala.

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  Theatrical scene, possibly from ancient vase.

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  Silver coins of Macedonia and Thrace.

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  Burial mound at Develi, eastern Thrace.

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  Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, from the northwest.

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  View of the interior of Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, from the entrance looking towards the altar.

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  View of the interior of Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, from the central nave looking towards the entrance.

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  Signet from Istanbul: the flight of Aeneas from Troy.

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  Stem and flower of plant of the genus Veronica , discovered by the author during his tour of Aemus Mons.

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  Mineralogical instuments.

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  Map of Timișoara, Romania.

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  View of village near Săcărâmb or Nagyág mines, Romania.

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  Romani of Banat, historical region of Central Europe (shared between Hungary, Serbia and Romania) washing gold.

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  View of Vienna from the southeast.

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  Topographic map of Istanbul.

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  Map showing the itinerary of Edward Daniel Clarke.

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  View of Thebes from Plataeae.

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  Map of Malian gulf area.